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The Australian Shepherd is a fantastic breed of dog for those willing to take it on with all of its unique characteristics.  I am going to try to provide some questions for potential Aussie-owners to ask themselves before they purchase an Australian Shepherd.

There are a few things one should know before they consider buying an Australian Shepherd.....there can be a great variance in the quality, personality, temperament and other features of the dog based on the lineage of the dog (traditional working lines, showring bred lines, some mix of the above) and the quality of dogs used in the breeding program (breeding quality vs. pet quality, and bred by responsible breeder vs. bred by inexperience backyard breeder). 

So, for my purposes here, the traits I will be describing will be based on the Australian Shepherd standard;

which to me, implies a traditional working-bred Aussie, from parents of good breeding quality, bred by a responsible and knowledgeable breeder.

I will make some comments (totally my own opinion) about the other type of Aussies you may run into, at the bottom of the page.

Ask yourself the following questions....

if you answer no to any of them,

you may want to reconsider the Australian Shepherd as your breed of choice...

or at least understand your commitment to an individual dog even in the face of this "no" answer.

Your Personality and Patience Level:

Do you have a sense of humor; are you able to laugh when you see a dog covered in mud or food from your fridge?

(this is an intelligent and active dog and can often be found in situations that we'd rather they NOT be in).

Do you have patience; are you able to tolerate a dog that is walking alongside you, between your legs, or in front of you wherever you go?

(the dog can be trained to get out of your way, but Aussies are considered "velcro" dogs and will rarely leave your side....moments that were previously "private" may not be so any longer. e.g. restroom,etc.)

If the dog will be indoor dog, a
While not all Aussies require weekly brushings, some dogs require twice a week, so good to be prepared for weekly brushings to reduce shedding.

Are you ready to commit to a dog that will be with you for 13-16 years?

Most Aussies will have this length of lifespan and you shouldn't get one if you can't house, feed, and care for it for that many years.

Your Need or Desire for Protection and/or Friendly Dog:

Do you want a dog that is eager and willing to protect your house and land from intruders by barking and

possibly pursuing someone who enters without your permission?

(Aussies are protective by nature; not violent or aggressive, but are quick to sound the alarm if strangers approach and they might take action as they see fit if you are not home when "intruder" enters yard or house).

Are you comfortable with a dog that might not eagerly greet all visitors to the house with wagging tail and kisses....but might instead hang back and assess situation before approaching visitors? 

(The Aussie is reserved by nature. When well-bred it will not be shy and cowering and fearful, but neither will it usually bounce up gleefully to greet folks.  Some will growl at strangers but stop when you tell them the visitor is "okay" and others would never do that, but will hang back until they size the newcomer up.  An Aussie should never bite or harass a visitor you have welcomed to your house).

Your Activity Level:

Are you willing to participate in at least beginning obedience dog classes with your Aussie or do you personally have experience in training dogs for household/farm life already?

(Aussies are intelligent and usually do best in homes that take part in formal obedience classes or actively train their dog to behave. 

If you do not set limits on an Aussie's behavior, they will set their own.)

Do you plan to participate in an active endeavor on regular basis with your dog? (e.g.  farm/herding chores, daily jogs or long walks, frisbee sessions, agility classes, flyball classes, tracking classes, search and rescue work,etc.)

(The Aussie is a high energy dog.  A well-bred Aussie should not be hyper, but does need a job to do and regular exercise with a human or another dog to not become obnoxious or get into trouble).

Your Household Space/Conditions:

Are you comfortable with a certain amount of shedding around your house?

(Aussies shed in the moderate to high amount, depending on lineage of dog.  They have an undercoat that either sheds seasonally or on ongoing basis).

Are you comfortable with a certain amount of tracking in of mud in your house (or do you have entryway to prevent it)?

(Aussies are active dogs that love to be outdoors and love to play in mud, water,etc.  It seems likely with these qualities that everyone who owns one needs to have some tolerance for  a bit of dirt in their house or a way to keep it out of their house).

Do you have a fenced-in yard or other way to contain your dog?

(due to the Australian Shepherds high prey-drive (chasing/herding instinct)  and intelligence-- they are quick to chase passing cars, escape from kennels, even climb fences...so a six foot solid --not invisible--fence around yard and roof on kennel is recommended.)

Your Family/Other Pets:

Are you willing to do what it takes to help your new Aussie adjust to any other pets you may have?

(Most Aussies get along well with other dogs and cats, but some may always be a cat-chaser and you may need baby-gates or such to protect the cat)....or you may need to do certain training or separation to help dogs get along.  Some males may be territorial with other dogs.

Have you already or are you willing to teach your children how to read a dog's behavior, how to keep distance from dog and/or how to treat a dog?

Are you willing to supervise all young children (0-5 years old) when they are with the dog?

(Aussies are usually great family pets, loyal and protective of children and have even saved the lives of family members.  But Aussies are also willing to stand up for their rights and if they are repeatedly mistreated by a child (ears pulled, hair pulled,etc.) they may take correcting the child into their own hands (biting, growling, nipping,pushing,etc.).   It is important to always watch small children with dogs and to teach all children how to leave a dog alone when it goes into its crate or its special area or when it growls.)

Your Community:

Does your town have dogparks where dogs can go offleash to socialize or classes designed to incorporate socialization of dogs?

(while all dogs need socialization with other dogs -outside of their family- and other people, Aussies in particular can benefit from this exposure.  If you live/work on a farm, will your dog be going with you to do errands in town,etc.?  Socialization is important throughout life, but is crucial when dog is still a puppy).

Do you have a way to keep neighbor children or stray dogs from entering your yard where the dog will be kept?

(Aussies will protect their land/yard from strangers, even children, and while they are not quick to bite, such things can happen if strange children or pets wander in unattended.  Lawsuits or death may follow for the Aussie in some states, so it's best to avoid this through a fenced and locked yard,etc.)

If you have answered the above questions and feel that you are ready for an Australian Shepherd dog, let me give you some hints as to where to find your dog...

Should you consider using the.....

Newspaper?

I'd usually say no.  Most often the folks advertising in the newspaper are either people with accidental litters (which means they didn't put correct planning into it) or backyard breeders (folks that breed because they think it will bring in some extra cash or because they have "such a great dog"...not thinking about all the other things that go into it).  You can stumble into some nice dogs this way, but it is very risky, and you might end up with dog with health problems, viciousness or fearful problems, hyperness,etc.  The exception to this is the respected breeder who ends up with left-over puppy (doesn't happen often) and runs ad in paper just for kicks....but this is unusual.

Petstores:

NO, NO, NO.....while again, you can stumble into a good dog this way, it is really a long-shot.  Most of the stores have a relationship with a puppy-miller and simply get their dogs year after year from that person (who is just in business to sell dogs by quantity, not quality).   The petstore will often you charge you more for lesser quality dog than a breeder.  The dogs are often drugged to keep them sedated and content in small, confined areas....they are shown lots of strangers, but rarely get the socialization and training needed in developmental weeks.  And they are often separated from their mother at too early of an age to get to the store while they are still "cute".  This is my least favorite place for you to buy a dog.  You can't meet the parents of the dogs, can't see how or where it was bred, can't talk to the breeder about what they were going for in that litter,etc.etc.

Puppy-Miller:

Rarely do these folks advertise directly for you to buy from them...most often their dogs go to petstores,etc. BUT occasionally you may see them selling a dog.  This is a tricky person to spot...because they are known for having a high number of adults dogs AND puppies at the same time (but some reputable breeders might as well) and they can even have dogs from good kennels, so you may recognize the lineage,etc.   But the features that make them stand out as puppy millers most often is the following:  no contract saying they'll guarantee dogs for health problems,etc.,  dirty conditions for adult dogs/often stacked in crates,etc.,  adults seem unsocialized, not happy and healthy,  they don't check for eye defects or hips in their dogs (can't show you OFA or CERF paperwork), you might not be allowed to meet the parents of the puppies,  they do not have a philosophy or goal for why they are breeding, they just breed and breed and breed.

Ask good, tough questions, visit the dogs, see how they live, get written guarantee,etc. and you'll hopefully avoid the puppy miller. 

** Sidenote:  just because a dog doesn't live indoors or in cushy life-style isn't the measuring tool, as many working-bred, and well-bred Aussies may be living in the barn quite happily.....but if they are dirty, underfed, not playful and happy,etc.and living in cage or dirty kennel, that is not a happy situation.

Breed Journals (Aussie Times) or AKC Journal advertisements?

Now you're getting closer... in these cases, you are dealing with breeders, which gives you an advantage.  So, in general, yes, that's a fine way to get leads and get started in search. However, remember that like any other advertisement, they are only telling you what they want you to know....and photos and descriptions can be deceiving, so even if you get a name this way, do lots of investigating, asking of questions and references,etc. all the same.

Internet:

Same as above....you can't tell what you're dealing with based on the internet ads.  If they seem really money-oriented, discussing dogs as "product",etc....it could be a puppy-miller or backyard breeder using web for higher profits.....but if their page educates and informs you about their philosophy,etc. then you can consider them potential breeder and continue your questions/research from there.

Word of Mouth:

This is a great way to get leads on dogs...you meet an Aussie you really like and you want one just like it.  Ask for the breeder's name,etc.

Now, you need to know that not even dogs in the same litter may be just alike...they can be as different as kids in a human family...so getting dogs from same breeder, but different litter or different stud/bitch can make a big difference...BUT it gives you a good place to start.  Ask the owner of the dog about the breeder; has the breeder been helpful when called with questions,etc. Did the breeder give good contract,etc.?

Then visit the breeder and ask all the questions you would otherwise.

Reputable Breeder:

This is the person you should buy from....the person who did research on the breed and health issues in the breed before even starting to breed.  Hopefully, they have worked an Aussie on livestock (in present or in past) so you know they know what a true Aussie is supposed to be like (even if YOU are living in the city and will never see livestock).

 But more important is that they have a reason for each breeding...they know what they are trying to achieve to improve the breed as a whole, their adult breeding dogs should have eyes tested annually and hips checked as adults.  There are other things that can be tested (icing on the cake if you will) but you should not rule a breeder out if they don't do these things...thyroid testing, official temperament testing, or DNA-checks. 

They shouldn't breed a dog before it is 2 years old (and hips can be checked) and I personally prefer to get dog from parents that are 5-6 years old (just to be safer with genetic issues that might not crop up until that age).   You should meet the parents of the pups....ideally BEFORE the pups are born..and again after the pups are born, when you go to pick yours out.  I find that people who go to see dogs when puppies are there and waiting to be taken home rarely have the strength to turn down a cute puppy..MUCH BETTER to meet the dogs, assess the breeder, kennel conditions and adults BEFORE you see any cute puppies.  Go home, think about it, visit some other breeders for comparison, and then buy where you are most comfortable. 

This means to start looking for a dog about a year or so before you really want to get it!

Questions to Ask Whomever is Selling the Pups:

So, I've told you to ask everybody THE questions...what kind of questions are these?  Well, some you'll add that have to do with your own needs...the type of dog YOU want...but I'll give you some basics that you should ask EVERYONE.....

1.  Why did you do this particular breeding? What was it about parents that seemed good to you,etc?

What were you going for,etc.?

(the answers that worry me are: I just liked the dog....I wanted the kids to see a dog have babies, or....I thought it would be good for her to have one litter before I spayed her...).

2.  What is the OFA rating on the parents ? (PennHIP is another test that might have been done).

(can be Hip Dysplastic/Poor, Fair, Good, Excellent...I'd want at least Good on both parents...but some folks are willing to have a Fair on one parent if they just want a pet and won't be doing jumping/agility,etc. with dog).

3.  Have the dogs had CERF exam by certified opthamologist? (don't let them say their own vet checked it out and dog is fine).

If you are iffy about this, ASK TO SEE THE PAPERWORK?

4.  Are both the parents (stud and bitch) merles?

If the person doesn't know or doesn't THINK the dog is a merle, be suspicious. (Some dogs are merles,but the only merling visible was on their tail as a puppy, now docked off..so if this is backyard breeder..they might not even know they HAVE a merle adult and you won't be able to tell by looking at it.)

 If the parents are both merles, that can be okay..BUT there is also good likelihood for some pups to be homozygous merles.  These can be some of the cutest pups....big, healthy looking..with lots of white...on ears, around eyes,etc...but that can also be sign that they are going to be deaf, blind or have other internal health problems. So, if the parents are both merles and you are not experienced enough to recognized homozygous merles in the batch, make sure you take a puppy that has solid color around and covering BOTH ears and eyes.  The less white the better in this case.

If in doubt, go with a mating where at least one parent is a solid and you'll avoid this altogether (though white around ears and INSIDE of ears can cause some hearing loss in regular Aussies as well...so check that out in any case).

5.  What do you do to socialize the puppies with other dogs and people while they are still with you?

6.  What vaccinations do pups receive before leaving with me?  Will you give me written record of shots to date?

(they should be keeping written document of this and of worming schedule).

7.  May I meet the stud and bitch (parents of the pups)....the bitch should be do-able....the stud may be harder if he doesn't live at kennel. Note: some bitches are very protective of puppies...another good reason to meet her BEFORE she has pups as her personality might be a little different with puppies there.

8.  What kind of personality/temperament do your dogs usually have? What could I expect?

(this is tough..mostly you are looking for the type YOU can live with...BUT some folks will gloss over things to make dog sound ideal, and that might not be so good either...so look for things that sound good to you, but also realistic.)

9.  Do your puppies have exposure to children before they leave home?

(not a necessity by any means, but added perk if you have kids....as long as THEIR kids didn't terrorize pups into hating kids.)

10.  Are your pups crate-trained or house-trained before they leave your kennel?

Again..probably not commonly done..but an added perk if that is important to you....I've never worried about it myself, I do it here without much concern when I bring the pup home.

11.  I plan to get my dog involved in ________ (agility, obedience, herding,etc.)...do you have any thoughts on that? Have you bred dogs in the past doing that activity..if so, could I talk to that dog's owners?  How have they done?  If not, do you foresee any health reason they couldn't do it?
(e.g.  if you want your dog to do real herding on your farm and the breeder has never tried any of their dogs on livestock EVER, that might not be best chance for you to take..you have NO clue if the dog will have built-in instinct needed to herd.  On the other hand, if you just think you might want to do a herding trial for fun, then there isn't much loss for you if the dog doesn't have that ability.)

12.  What types of health issues have shown up either in the parents or grandparents? Have there been any cases of thyroid problems, epilepsy, seizures, blindness, juvenile cataracts, Collie Eye Anomaly (CEA), deafness, viciousness, heart disease, moderate to severe hip dysplasia,  cancer?

(you will not find a line that has never had any incidents of anything, but you can find lines clear of most or certain problems or at least who are aware of them and stopped breeding those dogs,etc.)

13.  If I am unable to care for my Aussie for any reason, will you take it back? 

If not, under what circumstances do you take back a dog?

(most breeders will take back a dog if it has genetic health problems at any point in life or if you are not satisifed with it while it is still a young dog.  Some breeders will take it back at any time for any reaons, others feel that after a certain point, if the dog is healthy and well tempered, you take over responsibility for finding it  a new home....depending on how likely you feel it is that you may have to give up the dog, choose the breeder that has the agreement you feel you'll need.)

Why does buying a puppy from  a breeder cost $200-$500 for even a pet quality dog?

This is a common question and a reason that some folks go to the newspaper and buy a puppy listed for $50...but let me tell you that the additional $$ are a good investment.  First, for a breeder to do their job right, there are some built-in costs that you might not think about....

1.  Showing a dog/competing with dog to find out if it is good enough to breed (in Australian Shepherds at the very least this is usually  herding trials, sometimes also conformation,obedience, agility, tracking,etc. as icing on the cake).  There is also the training that goes into this (classes,etc.).  This may easily total thousands of dollars just to determine which of your dogs to breed to one another.

2.  Getting parents both checked for eyes and hips (about $75.00 per dog minimum).

3.  If the breeder owns both bitch and stud, things are a bit cheaper (except that you're training, showing and feeding more dogs that way)....but if they  don't own the stud (for example) the breeder needs to pay the stud fee (can range from that breeder getting to choose a puppy to a fee of $1000 or more).

4.  Feeding the bitch additional food while pregnant and while nursing.

5.  Vet visits for the bitch for possible ultrasound and if there are any complications, though this step may be eliminated.

6.  When the puppies come they need to have dewclaws removed and tails docked....also shots for the puppies and worming,etc.

Some breeders can do this themselves and pay only for medicine/equipment.....but most need to take pups to vet for visit (probably at least $$100 - $120 per puppy, often more).

7.  Then each puppy needs to have his eyes tested by a certified opthamologist...usually not to be found in town....so one needs to drive a few hours and then pay $20 per puppy usually.

8.  To register the litter as a litter (not individuals) costs: about $2 per puppy.  Usually $16-$20 per litter.

9.  Vet check-up for clearance before going to new home....about $20 per puppy.  But usually at least one puppy will get some little temporary healthy problem requiring a quick visit to vet (another $100 for one pup).

10.  Most pups are started on food for a few weeks (often up to 5 weeks) before leaving home....food and supplements for pups can run $60 per puppy.

11.  Getting puppy packet together (usually about $5.00 per dog, can be more if breeder throws in a book or video).

12.  Advertising the litter in legitimate places (journals,etc.) can range from $20-$1000.  Advertising the bitch and stud so that people know their accomplishments and WANT to buy a puppy from this breeder will run hundreds of dollars sometimes before the bitch is even pregnant.

So, if you add this up....you're saying that the breeder has put in at least $275.00 per puppy, sometimes MUCH more (if they did #1 and #12,etc.).

This is not even counting the time put into socializing the puppy, housetraining the puppy, perhaps, mailing you photos or videos of puppies so you could choose,etc.etc.  

Paying more for a dog is an investment in a dog because if you buy a dog from a caring, concerned breeder who bred healthy adults, you'll get a healthy puppy who will need fewer trips to vet as adult, will live longer (so training,etc. pays off more), and will bring years of joy to you.

The cost of surgery for a dog with Hip Dysplasia, putting down a dog with a bad temperament, etc.etc. can run MUCH MORE!!!

If you buy from someone in their backyard, they are skipping SOME step if they can charge only $50...

or they are so wealthy that they don't notice the loss of money, but that is unusual.

What is this Show vs. Working line thing I hear about?

In my own words....Originally, the Australian Shepherd was a working dog bred to herd/work.  They, simultaneously, were the family's pet (so to speak) or at the very least a valued "farmhand".  In the 1970's, after the standard was developed by ASCA, showing the Aussies in conformation came to the "forefront" and the Aussie moved into the cities as well as the country.   Some dogs were herding less and less, if at all, and were bred for showring success and pets as their primary goal.  Dr. Heard was one of the first to openly say that he liked a pretty dog and wanted dogs with nice trim, lots of bone and coat,etc.  These early dogs, shown successfully first by Phil Wildhagen, went on to form the foundation for most of the current conformation lines....so if you go back far enough in them you'll run into Flintridge Kennel dogs.

Other Aussies were still raised on ranches and farms for the main purpose of herding, with intelligence and herding instinct rated higher than looks while choosing breeding stock.   These lines have and still go back to primarily lines such as Las Rocosa, Ely, Woods, Taylors (and other "family" names or "unknown" ranch dogs).

Still others were bred with working ability as the main function, but also bred for conformation and style. (lines such as  Las Rocosa, Fairoaks, Imagineer, Mistretta,etc.)

Since then there has become more and more division between what is considered "working lines" and "showlines".  Some people find that these can be balanced and are trying to combine the lines again....others say the split is there and can't be brought back.  This is all opinion and a bit hard to sort out.

If you find a dog from primarily showlines that has not been bred to maintain herding/working instinct, you might also find an Australian Shepherd that is less territorial, less protective of family, more friendly with strangers, sheds a bit more, and slightly larger in size.  Some of these dogs can still herd...especially if you are interested in trialing more than farm/ranch work, but are known for their ability in the conformation ring,etc.

 If you find a dog from primarily working lines that has kept that as the primary goal, you might find an Australian Shepherd that is a bit smaller or leaner in stature, who is independently intelligent, sheds a bit less, more protective of land/house/family and more reserved around strangers.  Some of these may be able to win in the conformation ring, but are known for their athleticism and ability to think on their own (search and rescue work,etc.) more than their looks.

The combined lines (not very many around) will give you anywhere along that continuum, depending on what they have intentionally bred for...

This is all casual conversation, not scientific description...I only share it so that you can look into lines and find what fits YOU and your lifestyle best. The advantage of this slight division in the breed is that there is an Aussie for almost every person (who can answer "yes" to the questions I posed at the beginning of this page).   The problem with the division is that it is hard to set down what is TRULY an Australian Shepherd these days....the old-style Aussie is harder and harder to find.  But they are still out there if that's what you want, and if you want the newer kinds...that's there, too.

In any case, check for health and temperament of the Aussie you choose and be prepared for a commitment of many  years!